STEP 1
First you need to find a motor donor cars are as follows;
99-00 Mitsubishi Galant ES
00-04 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT or GTS
01-04 Dodge Stratus R/T or coupe
01-04 Chrysler sebring coupe

STEP 2
Refer to your chiltons or haynes manual on how to remove your 2.5 V6 you can either take the transmission out or leave it in. If you opt to leave the transmission in please be carefull when installing the 3.0 that you do not damage the flexplate!!!

STEP 3
Preferrably have each engine on an engine stand but if not definately get the 3.0 on a stand opposite of the pulleys. Now what you need to do is strip down your 3.0. The only things that you will need on the 3.0 are as follows;
the block and heads should be kept intact including cams
the front valve cover
cam gears
water pump
timing belt (if your donor motor has over 40,000 miles on it you might as well replace it know you will never have an easier time)
OPTIONAL fuel injectors with both parts of the harness and clips as well as the lower intake manifold(you will need to sever your 19lb injectors to splice these 21lb injectors in I did not do this)
OPTIONAL (required for emissions) you will need to tap the side of the head to run your EGR valve opposite of the pulleys about 1 1/2 inches below the valve cover there are exhaust ports and the one one the far right you will need to tap into on the side of the motor you should see to threaded bolt holes if you remove your EGR valve off of your 2.5 you can use the 2 bolts and the gasket as a template and just simply use a drill and drill right through.
all other parts will not be used no accesories if you had a complete motor you should have pulled off the oil pan rear, valve cover, alternator, power steering pump, distributor, cap and rotor, A/C pump, exhaust mannifolds, starter, oil filter adapter, plugs and wires, water x-pipe, and the intake manifold and throttle body assembly.
On the top of the 3.0 there is a crank sensor with a wire coming off of it just simply snip the wire and cap it off or tpe it off as the 2.5 computer will not use this.

STEP 4
Time to strip down that 2.5 and transfer everything over. Start by removing the entire harness andintake manifold and set tthem to the side it will go on last. Next remove the cap, rotor and distributor and install the on the 3.0 but make sure to inspect them and replace the cap and rotor if necesary. Next remove the exhaust manifolds and set them aside and remove the starter and install it on the 3.0. Remove the oil filter and adapter and install them on the 3.0 this would also be a great time to replace the oil filter. Remove the rear valve cover and install it on the 3.0. Remove the crank pulley and install it on the 3.0 making sure it is torqued on correctly. Remove the power steering pump and bracket and install it on the 3.0. Remove the alternator and bracket and only install the bracket on the 3.0 setting aside the alternator and again great time for easy replacement. Remove the oil pan and when installing it two of the holes on the transmission side( the two that are either side of the rear main seal) will not line up correctly you can either RTV the crap out of it or simply drill new holes(which is what I did) it is also a good idea to replace the rear main seal on the 3.0 while you are in there. Now install your exhaust manifolds using new gaskets. OPTIONAL this is where you will be installing the EGR valve and tube. Now comes time to deciede whether which injectors to use which ever you deceide use the 2.5 fuel rail and isatall the lower manifold from the same engine as the injectors but be sure to use new intake manifold gaskets. Now we have more options whether or not to use the upper intake manifold brackets they will not fit on the 3.0 without modification you need to grind them down or plasma cut them but remember how much of a PITA it is to remove your manifold with those brackets (I modified mine and installed them and deceided not to bolt the manifold to them what a waste of time and energy IMO) so, if you did modify them install them, if not, good for you! Now remove your water x-pipe and install it on the 3.0. Plugs and wires are next (ok cheapo) replace them with new ones don't be a total stinge on this build buy a nice set of plugs and wires and put them on that 3.0! Last but not least install the wiring harness
Ok you should be ready to put that 3.0 in your Stratus/Cirrus/Sebring now follow the Haynes/Chilton manual.

STEP 5
Now that you have the 3.0 in your car install the upper intake manifold using a new gasket and replace your throttle body gasket. Now install your alternator.
Now we need to plug in the rest of those harness plugs, man those down by the transmission are a pain if you left the transmission in aren't they? Wait a second you thought you could fire it up now huh? Nope not done yet, install your power steering belt and serpentine belt, are we forgetting somthing? Yes OIL, COOLANT and TRANSMISSION FLUID!!!! I don't know how many builds I've seen go bad because of forgetting to put oil in. Now one final check and fire her up!!

Make sure you drive around for at least 500 miles before getting on it prefferably 2000 miles give the computer time to adjust and make sure you have everything going right.


I AS WELL AS STRATUSPHERE ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR FAULTY INSTRUCTIONS OR ADVICE GIVEN ON INSTALLATIONS REFER TO LOCAL LAWS AND REGULATIONS ON MOTOR SWAPS AND GET PLENTY OF ADVICE FROM THOSE OF US THAT HAVE PIONEERED THESE AND HAVE GOTTEN OVER MANY HEADACHES

This post has been edited by stratilover: January 1, 2005 - 12:20 pm

It is better to take the original trans on the 2.5 or its better to swicth for the trans on 3.0L ?? Between stroke 2.5L ( I will need to rebuilt it maybe in 1 year) and swap for 3.0L what do you think is the best ??

Thx

Frank

as of right now no one has changed their transmission they are all using their stock a604 41te..............so you retain it but it would be wise to do a shift kit and a larger trans cooler along with some synthetic fluid


-chris

if the swap was to be done and the 21lb injectors were left on, would it be running too rich and bog out or would it be fine and be better for potential future mods? Also, the crank pulley is pulled from the 2.5 and put on the 3.0, right?

Last of all, after installation and the car ran again, about how long did it take and what, if anything, was wrong once the car ran? Too rich, too lean, low idle, any problems at all? Were they fixable? It sounded like StratusMank had some issues getting it to run right for a while...but i could be wrong! Thanks!

I'm really looking into doing this swap, and any tips or anything at all would be great!

TJ

if the swap is done correctly the only problem is it should be running lean somewhere in the 15.5-16.5 volt range AFR now with the 21lb injectors it may run a little rich larry (stratusmank) had many problems mostly due to the shop that installed it but several steps were skipped and yes you use the 2.5 crank pulley which larry and i are using under drive pulleys for the 2.5

as for myself i kept havong misfire problems but after hunting them down and replacing all the plugs and wires the problem ceased


it should take your stock computer about a minimum of 300 miles to begin to learn what has been done to it but if something major is wrong you will throw a CEL within a few miles of driving it


-chris

So I might be better off just leaving in the 21# injectors? I'll just have to splice in the wires to the existing harness, correct? Stratilover, Do you know what caused the plugs and wires to misfire? Any other after-swap things you or Larry ran into? I'm really interested in doing this swap but want to understand everything I can that's involved and that I would have to deal with after the swap. Stratilover, did you do the swap yourself or have a shop do it? I'm going to do this one myself, so if you did it yourself any tips or hints or things that I might overlook would be great help! If you'd rather converse over PM, send me one - either way is fine with me! Thanks for the help!

TJ

just a couple of questions so i can make this easier for the shop that is going to do this for me...

STEP 4
Time to strip down that 2.5 and transfer everything over.

Can't we keep some things? Is it possible to use the following off of the 3.0?

Next remove the cap, rotor and distributor and install the on the 3.0?
Remove the rear valve cover and install it on the 3.0.
Remove the crank pulley and install it on the 3.0
Remove the power steering pump and bracket and install it on the 3.0.
Remove the alternator and bracket and only install the bracket on the 3.0

and the upper intake manifold using a new gasket and replace your throttle body gasket.

So are we only using the Block and heads and valves from the 3.0?

In other words, what should I order from the junk yard? As it is I asked for a complete 3.0ltr ready to drop in and go. If i can save some money by just ordering what I need i'd rather do that.. know what I mean?

This post has been edited by Gabbledak1: July 14, 2005 - 3:16 pm

Yes, just the long block. The more complete 3.0l, the more parts that can be sold.

Alright, the 3.0 should be here today, But i'm still a little bit confused with the whole same block but bigger thing. When i go buy some gaskets for this new block, am i still getting the gaskets for the 2.5?

The only difference between the blocks is the internals right?

I want to replace the Rear main seal and the valve cover gaskets and water pump while the engine is out..

Good thing I'm not doing the install huh lol..

All of those things will be much easier to replace while the motor is out and are very good ideas! I am glad to soon have another brethren!

I want to know the price range on this whole swap. I'm thinking of getting it done this winter and want to know how much you guys have spent. So I know what I'm saving up for.

let me get this straight.......we are pulling a slow 2.5 V6 and installing the slow 3.0 V6... not to be rude or anything but it doesnt make sense to me.... what really doesnt make sense is that when my motor (which has 170K on it) shits out on me, i am going to do the 3.0 swap myself. Now that is confusing..... no wait....thats desperate..... so desperate for hp that our cars dont have. But hey..probably in the next year you can count me in on the swap.

if i bought a used 3.0 to swap in... it would definatly get the rebuild......forged rebuild that is. Im sitting on a brand new jasper tranny so im sticking with 2.5 tranny seen as how its brand new.

what is the HP gain by this swap???? at the wheels that is..... is it really worth the Hp gain....or is it being done because you just can....???

Bringing it back one mo gen.

ummmm.......... anyway. ive been doing alot of writing down my 3.0 build info and was just wondering if we knew about any performance heads for that guy. ive read a couple threads on asecclub that the evo vii and vii are doable but they dont clarify if they are v6 or I4's.

anyone thats done this swap have anything to respond to this

hehehe, the hermit ignored again.


with this swap. do we use our motor mounts or the mounts from the 3.0? also ^ there i asked about heads. anyone?>

here you go guys real stuff jut got back from the trak a stock 3.0 v-6 with real bad traction( tires were sliping trough the firs and second gear the whole time) now you compare the 2.5 and 3.0 do the math