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FIX: HVAC fan works on high only..., replace blower motor resistor...
Stratuscaster
post March 22, 2004 - 8:03 am
Post #1


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1998 Dodge Stratus
2.4L DOHC I4 / 4spd Auto



These docs provided by David:
QUOTE
A new blower motor resistor will cost you around $20 at the dealer.  Within the blower motor resistor assembly is a non-user serviceable thermal fuse.  The fuse is what usually blows.  Most of the time, simply replacing the blower motor resistor assembly will take care of the problem.  If you continue to experience a failure, you may need to replace the blower motor as well.  One thing I have learned after blowing 3, is to not use the blower motor control in the low position, as this is the position that has the highest resistive load.  Since I have stopped using the low setting, I have not blown a BM in 18months.



Before you begin, make sure that your battery is disconnected or at least the blower control is in the off position and they key is removed from the ignition. 

The blower motor resistor is located under the passenger side ducting cover that is under the dash (right above the passenger floorboard area).  There are 3 or 4 push-pin type plastic clips that hold the cover in place.  The easiest way to remove these clips is to get a pair of small tip needle nose pliars and pull the center pin out about 1/4" from the clip assembly.  Once the pin is pulled, you should be able to remove the clips with little effort.  Once you remove all retaining clips, move the ducting cover to the side. 

If you get your head down on the floorboard and look up, you will see the wiring harness that is shown above.  The wire harness (2) plugs into the blower motor resistor assembly.  Remove the two screws (8mm?) that hold the blower motor resistor assembly in place.  Once you have removed the resistor assembly from the blower box, unplug the connectors from the blower motor resistor assembly by gently pressing the plug release clips and pulling away from the assembly.  Plug your replacement blower motor resistor assembly into the appropriate wire connectors until they snap into place.  Place the assembly back into the blower box and secure it with the 2 screws, do not over tighten. 

Place the ducting cover back into place and re-insert the clips.

Your done!

For the first few minutes of operation, you will notice a slight burning odor coming from the vents.  This is normal, and is caused by the burning off of anti-corrosive chemicals off of the resistor coils.

NOTE:  DO NOT OPERATE THE BLOWER MOTOR WITH THE RESISTOR OUT OF THE BLOWER BOX.  WITHOUT THE COOLING PROVIDED BY THE BLOWER, THE RESISTOR WILL REACH CRITICAL TEMPERATURE AND MAY CAUSE BURNS AND WILL DAMAGE THE RESISTOR!
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bustdknukle
post March 25, 2004 - 7:46 pm
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1996 chrysler cirrus
LXI sedan
2.5 V6 / auto



I agree, replace the blower motor also. You need to remove 3 more screws around the blower housing. The blower motor has 3 more screws attaching it to the housing. The fan slides off the shaft if you remove the spring clamp, but may not be necessary. Confirm rotation of the old fan...with the old resistor in place, fan switch on high and the blower on the floor, toggle the the key.....only to jump the motor. Note the rotation on the blower housing with a marker. Cut the wires on the inside of the housing. I believe black to black will get you correct rotation. You can use wire nuts to temporary connect the motor to confirm rotation. Use crimp wire connectors to reattach. Reverse procedure to install...not a bad job. Motor at most stores is $95 vs >$200 at the dealer. Dealer is the only place to get the resistor....Dallas price is $26.


you can do it!
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RedSpeedFreak
post March 25, 2004 - 8:44 pm
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You only need to replace the motor if you have repeatedly blown the resistor block.
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bustdknukle
post March 31, 2004 - 9:37 pm
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Why practice replacing resistor blocks at $25 a pop? Invest in a new blower since the hours on the blower bearings and brushes are at the end of their life. Predicitably that is causing extra load(current) and blowing the resistor.

Choose wisely where to spend your $25.
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RedSpeedFreak
post March 31, 2004 - 9:57 pm
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QUOTE
Why practice replacing resistor blocks at $25 a pop? Invest in a new blower since the hours on the blower bearings and brushes are at the end of their life. Predicitably that is causing extra load(current) and blowing the resistor.

Choose wisely where to spend your $25.


Well...mine was $18 and it's been over a year since I replaced it...

I could have either bought a new motor and new resistor block...or just a resistor block. The ONLY reason to change the motor out is if you've repeatedly blown the resistor block... wink.gif
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Theaariesthought
post April 2, 2004 - 5:05 pm
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2.4L Inline 4 / auto



Ok....I'm new to the site and I'm a lil confused..what is HVAC? Is that Heat vent Air conditioning? If so I've recently experienced this problem with my 98 plymouth breeze and I just bought it from a dealership in December. I have a warranty on the car. This will be very helpful. So far It doesn't look like an expensive problem to fix. Thanx!
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Theaariesthought
post April 2, 2004 - 5:10 pm
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I have one more question...

Since right now my ac/heat only works when on high, will there be any damage sustained if I go another month or two with this issue?
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David
post April 2, 2004 - 5:21 pm
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Sedan
2.4 / Auto



No, there will be no damage.
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blinkbmx72
post May 19, 2004 - 4:58 pm
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4 cyl., 2.0 L / Automatic



Quick question to clarify things...

The resistor that has to be replaced, is that located beneath what is shown in the picture or is it a part of the picture itself?
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David
post May 20, 2004 - 11:50 am
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The resistor block is the complete assembly that is held in by the two screws. Remove those two screws and the resistor will fall out in your hands.
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ForGreatJustice
post June 12, 2004 - 8:56 am
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Crap Sedan
V-6 / Auto



Well, its obvious to me now after two resistor blocks that the motor needs to be replaced.

However, I was wondering...is there a way to replace that thermal fuse with a circuit breaker, so that the whole thing doesn't need to be replaced when there is an overcurrent condition? Buying these things is a pain.
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bwill
post July 9, 2004 - 10:46 am
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base sedan
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Ok - I had the same symptoms - only working on the high setting - but now the blower doesn't work at all.

Does this mean that I need to replace the motor? Will I need to replace the motor and resistor, or will replacing the motor take care of it?

Any good step-by-step instructions for replacing the motor?
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FLYSTRATUS98
post July 13, 2004 - 7:05 pm
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10 SEDAN
2.4 MOD / AUTOMATIC



If the blower keeps burning out resistors it means that the blower motor's bearings are worn out therefore it drags instead of rotating freely and intern burn out the resitor. If all of the above happens then replace the blower motor and resistor and your done. I know it happend to my stratus. By the way i bought the blower motor at the junk yrad and paid $40.00 so dont get ripped off GOOD LUCK.
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Dressed2Impress
post July 15, 2004 - 3:36 pm
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I have this problem in my 2000 malibu do you think it could be the same thing if so its a big problem in most chev. malibus and pont. grand ams. I work at an auto auction and I deal with nothing but GM products and the hvac is always messed up on these cars
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StratusDann99
post July 17, 2004 - 9:38 pm
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You don't need to buy another resistor block. Just put a jumper between the dead thermal fuse. I soldered a wire between the fuse and I have been using the fan and ac for a while and I have had no problems with it. cool.gif
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bwill
post July 22, 2004 - 4:20 am
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base sedan
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Ok - looks like I need to replace the resistor and blower motor. Anyone with a Chilton's or Haynes manual care to share a scan of the page showing how to remove/replace the blower motor? According to Amazon, I would need page 6-9 from Chilton's, not sure about Haynes.
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19stratus97
post August 13, 2004 - 12:12 pm
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1997 Dodge Stratus
SE Sedan
4cyl. 2.4 / Auto



on my ride, all of a sudden the front vents wont blow any air but all the air is directed to the defroster vents up by the glass. I smacked the top of the dash the other day and the air finally came on to the front vents. Could it be that the mechanism the directs the air is messed up?
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SilvaStratus
post September 13, 2004 - 2:45 pm
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Slammed Modified Sedan
2.4L SRT-4 Spec / AutoStick



my car just started doing this and my friends pontiac grand prix has done it for EVER....i bet its the same thing

and i dont want to replace the whole motor so im gonna try doin just the resistor block the first time...

stratusdann dont you think thats teh WORST idea ever? thats what fuses are for..to blow to save the accessory they power...your gonna majorly fry some vital system with that attitude mister laughing.gif
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StratusDann99
post September 13, 2004 - 7:42 pm
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Sedan
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QUOTE(SilvaStratus @ September 13, 2004 - 3:03 pm)
my car just started doing this and my friends pontiac grand prix has done it for EVER....i bet its the same thing

and i dont want to replace the whole motor so im gonna try doin just the resistor block the first time...

stratusdann dont you think thats teh WORST idea ever? thats what fuses are for..to blow to save the accessory they power...your gonna majorly fry some vital system with that attitude mister laughing.gif

It is still working fine to this day, no smoke or fires and nothing burned.
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SilvaStratus
post September 13, 2004 - 7:57 pm
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the kid is so lazy that he just DOESNT use his air what so ever...just leaves it off...as for me, this only started this monday morning
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