Stratusphere: FIX: HVAC fan works on high only... - Stratusphere

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FIX: HVAC fan works on high only... replace blower motor resistor...

#1 User is offline   Stratuscaster 

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Posted 22 March 2004 - 08:03 AM

These docs provided by David:

Quote

A new blower motor resistor will cost you around $20 at the dealer.  Within the blower motor resistor assembly is a non-user serviceable thermal fuse.  The fuse is what usually blows.  Most of the time, simply replacing the blower motor resistor assembly will take care of the problem.  If you continue to experience a failure, you may need to replace the blower motor as well.  One thing I have learned after blowing 3, is to not use the blower motor control in the low position, as this is the position that has the highest resistive load.  Since I have stopped using the low setting, I have not blown a BM in 18months.

http://www.linkline.com/personal/n6idf/bmresistor.gif

Before you begin, make sure that your battery is disconnected or at least the blower control is in the off position and they key is removed from the ignition. 

The blower motor resistor is located under the passenger side ducting cover that is under the dash (right above the passenger floorboard area).  There are 3 or 4 push-pin type plastic clips that hold the cover in place.  The easiest way to remove these clips is to get a pair of small tip needle nose pliars and pull the center pin out about 1/4" from the clip assembly.  Once the pin is pulled, you should be able to remove the clips with little effort.  Once you remove all retaining clips, move the ducting cover to the side. 

If you get your head down on the floorboard and look up, you will see the wiring harness that is shown above.  The wire harness (2) plugs into the blower motor resistor assembly.  Remove the two screws (8mm?) that hold the blower motor resistor assembly in place.  Once you have removed the resistor assembly from the blower box, unplug the connectors from the blower motor resistor assembly by gently pressing the plug release clips and pulling away from the assembly.  Plug your replacement blower motor resistor assembly into the appropriate wire connectors until they snap into place.  Place the assembly back into the blower box and secure it with the 2 screws, do not over tighten. 

Place the ducting cover back into place and re-insert the clips.

Your done!

For the first few minutes of operation, you will notice a slight burning odor coming from the vents.  This is normal, and is caused by the burning off of anti-corrosive chemicals off of the resistor coils.

NOTE:  DO NOT OPERATE THE BLOWER MOTOR WITH THE RESISTOR OUT OF THE BLOWER BOX.  WITHOUT THE COOLING PROVIDED BY THE BLOWER, THE RESISTOR WILL REACH CRITICAL TEMPERATURE AND MAY CAUSE BURNS AND WILL DAMAGE THE RESISTOR!

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#2 User is offline   bustdknukle 

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 07:46 PM

I agree, replace the blower motor also. You need to remove 3 more screws around the blower housing. The blower motor has 3 more screws attaching it to the housing. The fan slides off the shaft if you remove the spring clamp, but may not be necessary. Confirm rotation of the old fan...with the old resistor in place, fan switch on high and the blower on the floor, toggle the the key.....only to jump the motor. Note the rotation on the blower housing with a marker. Cut the wires on the inside of the housing. I believe black to black will get you correct rotation. You can use wire nuts to temporary connect the motor to confirm rotation. Use crimp wire connectors to reattach. Reverse procedure to install...not a bad job. Motor at most stores is $95 vs >$200 at the dealer. Dealer is the only place to get the resistor....Dallas price is $26.


you can do it!
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#3 User is offline   RedSpeedFreak 

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 08:44 PM

You only need to replace the motor if you have repeatedly blown the resistor block.
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#4 User is offline   bustdknukle 

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Posted 31 March 2004 - 09:37 PM

Why practice replacing resistor blocks at $25 a pop? Invest in a new blower since the hours on the blower bearings and brushes are at the end of their life. Predicitably that is causing extra load(current) and blowing the resistor.

Choose wisely where to spend your $25.
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#5 User is offline   RedSpeedFreak 

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Posted 31 March 2004 - 09:57 PM

Quote

Why practice replacing resistor blocks at $25 a pop? Invest in a new blower since the hours on the blower bearings and brushes are at the end of their life. Predicitably that is causing extra load(current) and blowing the resistor.

Choose wisely where to spend your $25.


Well...mine was $18 and it's been over a year since I replaced it...

I could have either bought a new motor and new resistor block...or just a resistor block. The ONLY reason to change the motor out is if you've repeatedly blown the resistor block... :bowdown:
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#6 User is offline   Theaariesthought 

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Post icon  Posted 02 April 2004 - 05:05 PM

Ok....I'm new to the site and I'm a lil confused..what is HVAC? Is that Heat vent Air conditioning? If so I've recently experienced this problem with my 98 plymouth breeze and I just bought it from a dealership in December. I have a warranty on the car. This will be very helpful. So far It doesn't look like an expensive problem to fix. Thanx!
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#7 User is offline   Theaariesthought 

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 05:10 PM

I have one more question...

Since right now my ac/heat only works when on high, will there be any damage sustained if I go another month or two with this issue?
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#8 User is offline   David 

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 05:21 PM

No, there will be no damage.
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#9 User is offline   blinkbmx72 

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Posted 19 May 2004 - 04:58 PM

Quick question to clarify things...

The resistor that has to be replaced, is that located beneath what is shown in the picture or is it a part of the picture itself?
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#10 User is offline   David 

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Posted 20 May 2004 - 11:50 AM

The resistor block is the complete assembly that is held in by the two screws. Remove those two screws and the resistor will fall out in your hands.
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#11 User is offline   ForGreatJustice 

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Posted 12 June 2004 - 08:56 AM

Well, its obvious to me now after two resistor blocks that the motor needs to be replaced.

However, I was wondering...is there a way to replace that thermal fuse with a circuit breaker, so that the whole thing doesn't need to be replaced when there is an overcurrent condition? Buying these things is a pain.
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#12 User is offline   bwill 

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Posted 09 July 2004 - 10:46 AM

Ok - I had the same symptoms - only working on the high setting - but now the blower doesn't work at all.

Does this mean that I need to replace the motor? Will I need to replace the motor and resistor, or will replacing the motor take care of it?

Any good step-by-step instructions for replacing the motor?
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#13 User is offline   FLYSTRATUS98 

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Posted 13 July 2004 - 07:05 PM

If the blower keeps burning out resistors it means that the blower motor's bearings are worn out therefore it drags instead of rotating freely and intern burn out the resitor. If all of the above happens then replace the blower motor and resistor and your done. I know it happend to my stratus. By the way i bought the blower motor at the junk yrad and paid $40.00 so dont get ripped off GOOD LUCK.
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#14 User is offline   Dressed2Impress 

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Posted 15 July 2004 - 03:36 PM

I have this problem in my 2000 malibu do you think it could be the same thing if so its a big problem in most chev. malibus and pont. grand ams. I work at an auto auction and I deal with nothing but GM products and the hvac is always messed up on these cars
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#15 User is offline   StratusDann99 

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Posted 17 July 2004 - 09:38 PM

You don't need to buy another resistor block. Just put a jumper between the dead thermal fuse. I soldered a wire between the fuse and I have been using the fan and ac for a while and I have had no problems with it. :frustrated:
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#16 User is offline   bwill 

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Posted 22 July 2004 - 04:20 AM

Ok - looks like I need to replace the resistor and blower motor. Anyone with a Chilton's or Haynes manual care to share a scan of the page showing how to remove/replace the blower motor? According to Amazon, I would need page 6-9 from Chilton's, not sure about Haynes.
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#17 User is offline   19stratus97 

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Posted 13 August 2004 - 12:12 PM

on my ride, all of a sudden the front vents wont blow any air but all the air is directed to the defroster vents up by the glass. I smacked the top of the dash the other day and the air finally came on to the front vents. Could it be that the mechanism the directs the air is messed up?
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#18 User is offline   SilvaStratus 

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Posted 13 September 2004 - 02:45 PM

my car just started doing this and my friends pontiac grand prix has done it for EVER....i bet its the same thing

and i dont want to replace the whole motor so im gonna try doin just the resistor block the first time...

stratusdann dont you think thats teh WORST idea ever? thats what fuses are for..to blow to save the accessory they power...your gonna majorly fry some vital system with that attitude mister :yes:
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#19 User is offline   StratusDann99 

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Posted 13 September 2004 - 07:42 PM

SilvaStratus, on September 13, 2004 - 3:03 pm, said:

my car just started doing this and my friends pontiac grand prix has done it for EVER....i bet its the same thing

and i dont want to replace the whole motor so im gonna try doin just the resistor block the first time...

stratusdann dont you think thats teh WORST idea ever? thats what fuses are for..to blow to save the accessory they power...your gonna majorly fry some vital system with that attitude mister :lol:

It is still working fine to this day, no smoke or fires and nothing burned.
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#20 User is offline   SilvaStratus 

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Posted 13 September 2004 - 07:57 PM

the kid is so lazy that he just DOESNT use his air what so ever...just leaves it off...as for me, this only started this monday morning
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