Stratusphere: FIX: HVAC fan works on high only... - Stratusphere

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FIX: HVAC fan works on high only... replace blower motor resistor...

#21 User is offline   JAE 

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Posted 16 September 2004 - 09:31 AM

Does this fix work on the 2G? Is the procedure the same?

-JAE
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#22 User is offline   Norm McCraine 

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Posted 16 September 2004 - 10:19 AM

JAE, on September 16, 2004 - 8:49 am, said:

Does this fix work on the 2G? Is the procedure the same?

-JAE

Should be the same.
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#23 User is offline   SilvaStratus 

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Posted 16 September 2004 - 12:34 PM

it worked for me...just changed that thing out.

ill be interested to see if it goes again
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#24 User is offline   bomni 

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Post icon  Posted 12 October 2004 - 06:03 PM

LMAO. mine does the same thing. Only works on high. Just talked to my mom, she has a 98 Stratus. Does the same thing, only works on high. I can't believe the dealer wants 200 (or so) bucks to fix it. Just a resistor you say???? I'll try it! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)

This post has been edited by bomni: 12 October 2004 - 06:04 PM

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#25 User is offline   bomni 

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Posted 16 October 2004 - 10:24 PM

I replaced my resistor today. Kind of a creepy looking thing with those different sized coils on it. But it worked! It's getting cold here in MN and I needed to feel the heat, not hear it on HIGH!!! I did smell a very very slight burning smell initially when I first turned it on. But that went away in seconds.

THANKS A TON!

I send you PROPS from Minnesota!!!
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#26 User is offline   Immersion 

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Posted 03 January 2005 - 09:20 PM

Many thanks to "David" for providing this. When I bought my stratus it had this problem and I took the chance of buying it hoping it wasnt a costly repair. I finally got around to buying the part from one of the dodge dealers in the city and installed it. Everything went smooth! :lol:
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#27 User is offline   rawdogj 

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Posted 27 February 2005 - 08:00 AM

the dealer didnthave it and well im lazy so i also bypassed the restior.

it has been working fine, no problems at all from it.

but if you do just solder it up do so at your own risk B)
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#28 User is offline   adamsweden 

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 11:16 AM

thanks for the help here..changing the resistor worked perefectly, and took me ajusta few minutes and 220 SEK (guess about 28 dollars!)

feel like i just deprived the local AC specialist from 100 dollars..
thanks again
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#29 User is offline   vladd 

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Posted 12 November 2005 - 04:13 AM

why not put a fuse in there instead of just a jumper? any idea what kind of current it pulls? mine's having this problem and would like to avoid having to do this more than once, maybe run a fuse out to somewhere thats easily replaceable and keep jumping up till i find the right size, lol
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#30 User is offline   Stratuscaster 

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Posted 12 November 2005 - 09:18 AM

I'd imagine it would end up costing the same overall to just replace the resistor.

Thing is, if the resistor (or fuse) KEEPS failing on a consistant basis - the root of the problem is elsewhere.
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#31 User is offline   David 

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Posted 12 November 2005 - 06:57 PM

vladd, on November 12, 2005 - 3:13 am, said:

why not put a fuse in there instead of just a jumper? any idea what kind of current it pulls?  mine's having this problem and would like to avoid having to do this more than once, maybe run a fuse out to somewhere thats easily replaceable and keep jumping up till i find the right size, lol
View Post


Whomever suggests replacing a fuse with a jumper is not too bight! Fuses blow for a reason. Replacing the fuse until you find the "right size" is not a remedy to the problem either. If the fuse does not blow, something else will, probably in the form of a wire turning into a nice hot match!

This post has been edited by David: 12 November 2005 - 06:59 PM

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#32 User is offline   1RAGE 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 01:46 PM

Ok I removed the blower motor resistor from my Breeze because I was having problems with the lower fan settings.

Is there any way to tell if mine is burnt out? I can't see anything physically wrong with except a pin is missing from the connector (see pic below). I have an ohmmeter... how can I test it with it?

Here are some pictures:

Attached File(s)


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#33 User is offline   1RAGE 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 01:48 PM

Oops didn't realize the picture posting limit... K I hosted the rest of the images I wanted to show.

http://members.shaw.ca/turbo911/blowermotor/IMG_1908%20(Small).jpg

Notice missing pin. The connector clip is also missing the contacts inside of it for that corresponding pin.

http://members.shaw.ca/turbo911/blowermotor/IMG_1911%20(Small).jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/turbo911/blowermotor/IMG_1912%20(Small).jpg

This post has been edited by 1RAGE: 02 December 2005 - 01:52 PM

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#34 User is offline   DDstrat99es 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 01:50 PM

1RAGE, on December 2, 2005 - 1:46 pm, said:

Is there any way to tell if mine is burnt out?  I can't see anything physically wrong with except a pin is missing from the connector (see pic below).  I have an ohmmeter... how can I test it with it?



Test the resistance for each setting. The High setting should have close to zero ohms and increase in ohm rating the lower the fan speed setting.
More than likely there will be an open if the fan doesnt blow
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#35 User is offline   David 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 01:52 PM

You can test the thermal fuse that lies in the center of the BMR. That is what goes out.
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#36 User is offline   1RAGE 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 01:59 PM

Thanks but what about that pin that is missing? Is that normal? If it is supposed to be there then the end that plugs into it needs to be replaced as well because the contacts in that are missing.. but it looks like they might have been there at one time. Scroll up I edited my last post with pictures.

This post has been edited by 1RAGE: 02 December 2005 - 02:00 PM

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#37 User is offline   1RAGE 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 02:12 PM

David, on December 2, 2005 - 1:52 pm, said:

You can test the thermal fuse that lies in the center of the BMR.  That is what goes out.
View Post



Yes I put my ohmmeter leads across it and it doesn't show anything (or infinite resistance). So that must mean it is burnt out.
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#38 User is offline   1RAGE 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 02:29 PM

Called the local dealership and the pin count is normal... 5 + 2 pins.

He suggested that I have someone test the current draw from my blow motor because he thought it might save me some money in case it is the motor and it just burns out the new one. Well turns out to have it tested by a shop would be about the same cost as buying a new resistor assembly. I don't know enough to test the current draw myself so I might just go get a new resistor.

This post has been edited by 1RAGE: 02 December 2005 - 02:30 PM

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#39 User is offline   David 

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 07:12 PM

Replace the resistor and give it a try; if it blows again, replace the motor.

This post has been edited by David: 02 December 2005 - 07:13 PM

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#40 User is offline   MRodgers 

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 01:09 AM

It is not a resistor that blows. Its called a THERMAL FUSE. Its a heat sensitive fuse that blows at a specific tempature, not current draw. I would NOT bypass it with a jumper. Doing this can cause the coils (resistors) to heat up, and possible start a fire. I do have a How-To on replacing just the Thermal Fuse. Its pretty simple if you can solder and its about $2.

HVAC Fan Speed Fix
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