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@  Low-Speed : (19 November 2014 - 06:54 PM) the diameter on the large and small section of the strut above the perch, as well as the rod diameter
@  Dylan214 : (19 November 2014 - 06:49 PM) What u need? There stock mopar shocks and springs lol
@  Low-Speed : (19 November 2014 - 06:25 PM) I mostly need measurements
@  Dylan214 : (19 November 2014 - 06:01 PM) I put 4 new strut mounts on them. At 55k. The car got 59,619 miles on it
@  Dylan214 : (19 November 2014 - 06:00 PM) I'm still on my stock ones. Ill be changing over this winter so if u need a set.
@  Low-Speed : (19 November 2014 - 05:32 PM) Better yet, is there anyone here with a set of stock shocks out of the car?
@  Low-Speed : (19 November 2014 - 04:10 PM) Kenny - check your facebook
@  Dylan214 : (19 November 2014 - 12:32 PM) no miles on them.
@  Dylan214 : (19 November 2014 - 12:31 PM) I also own a set of Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs
@  KennyL : (19 November 2014 - 08:58 AM) Sending a PM Mr. William, I have an idea.
@  KennyL : (19 November 2014 - 08:14 AM) Run the NEX if you're got them, they are much better quality than a slip-on coil-over. You can indipendantly adjust the ride height and the spring pre-load, is the main difference.
@  Dylan214 : (19 November 2014 - 08:05 AM) Being they fell in my lap I own a set of Koni adjustable/coil-over and NEX(Ebay 300$) I am still deciding what ones do I run
@  Low-Speed : (19 November 2014 - 06:56 AM) I just want a set of Maxspeed/DropZone style for now
@  KennyL : (19 November 2014 - 06:19 AM) I didn't think anyone still carried the NEX for this platform, that's good to know. The AMR is far exceptional in quality and custom made for your application. All dependent on budget, and I know yours is slim. The NEX set at that price is cheaper than they were new during the group buy. Probably the best deal in coil-overs to be found.
@  Low-Speed : (19 November 2014 - 05:09 AM) http://www.cooperrac...COILOVER/Detail
@  KennyL : (19 November 2014 - 04:01 AM) Sorry, William, can't let go of mine just yet. I did finally get an email back from AMR engineering, though. He said making a set of high quality coil-overs for the Stratus platform would be "a piece of cake, just another day at the office". $1600 to $1795 shipped. Check out the Neon AMRs, they're top quality. If I could afford a set right now, you'd be getting my Koni adjustable/coil-over setup on the cheap. Heh.
@  borgwarrior : (19 November 2014 - 02:44 AM) Sgtmyers, what do you mean by erratic? The misfires? Those i dont have. I'd try a higher octane fuel first though. I'll ask the club, maybe they have a solution.
@  Low-Speed : (18 November 2014 - 07:16 PM) Anyone have a set of eBay coil sleeves they want to let go cheap?
@  sgtmyers88 : (18 November 2014 - 07:13 PM) Borgwarrior How did you fix your erratic engine problem?
@  Low-Speed : (18 November 2014 - 05:23 PM) I am going to have to rename it Plan C at this point

Photo

running slightly rough after timing belt change


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9 replies to this topic

#1 mn stratus

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Posted 08 October 2008 - 07:02 PM

Finished the timing belt change, got it all back together and started it up and it was running a little bit rough. My guess is that a cam slipped a notch or half notch. It was running fine when I took the belt off. Its no big deal to tear it apart again, I will be a pro now :)

Any other ideas or you agree that its a notch or half notch off?

#2 Stratuscaster

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Posted 08 October 2008 - 07:31 PM

That would be what I would check first.

#3 mn stratus

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 08:25 AM

Finally found the time to check the timing. It was off, more than a few notches too. Not sure how it happened, but it did, no use getting worked up over it, better to just get it fixed.

I got the timing set, verified a few times, turned the crank over maybe a dozen times or so, everything was still in time by the marks. Put it all back together and go to start. Nothing.

The starter cranks and the engine won't start now. The starter kicks in and sounds normal for a sec or so then it starts to spin the engine over what seems a little faster than normal. Its odd. I can't find my compression tester, digging through the moving boxes one by one, but putting my finger in the plug hole, I have both suction and compression in all cylinders, so there is something there. I have fuel and spark. Car was running fine before I took it apart, got it back together with the timing a little off, it ran rough. Took it apart a 2nd time, and I almost certain that the timing is now correct, but now the car won't start and sounds funny while turning over.

This is a 1998 2.4l DOHC Stratus SE, just a normal stock and standard car daily runner for work.

From the few bits and pieces that I have found, the 2.4l is a non-interference motor, but I haven't been able to verify that for the year, I just found info that says the 2.4 is non-interference. Can anyone verify?

Any ideas? I will take it apart again to check timing, and if its off, fix it again, but if its on, then what? I am a little perplexed.

Thanks

Edited by mn stratus, 29 October 2008 - 08:35 AM.


#4 Stratuscaster

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 09:33 AM

The 2.4 is non-interference.

Double check your cam and crank position sensors.

#5 mn stratus

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 09:37 AM

I just realized I put 1998 (that is my other car), this one is a 2000 :yes: Still non-interference?

What would I be looking for specifically? Wire connectors? Can you test the sensors with an multi-meter? If so do you know the ohm load for each and wires to check?

thanks for the fast reply

Edited by mn stratus, 29 October 2008 - 09:40 AM.


#6 Stratuscaster

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 10:32 AM

Chrysler's 2.4 from 1995 thru 2006 is non-interference.

Specifics on the sensors I do not have. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

#7 Howard33Stratus

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 04:27 PM

If it has spark you should be able to check timing with a timing light. Why tear it down again? How do you know you've got fuel and spark? If you have both, timing is on the mark, then it should start or run a bit. I'd look for something simple like a wire disconnected or a vacuum line broken, disconnected.

#8 mn stratus

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Posted 30 October 2008 - 09:01 PM

Thanks for all the help. Feel like an idiot, but I had the exhaust cam 180 from where it needed to be. Now I am trying to get the cam notches lined up. What's the trick? Do they have to be level or do they just need to line up? I am trying the half notch below on the exhaust cam like the book says, but since there is no reference mark on the back cover, to me it seems like a half notch starting from where?

Is it any problem to start the vehicle without the crank pulley on to test the timing? When I get the timing set I want to start the car and test it before I put it all back together again, just to find out the timing is still off.

I tell you though, I am good at taking it apart and getting it back together. Getting the timing correct, not so much :)

Edited by mn stratus, 30 October 2008 - 09:03 PM.


#9 pite0007

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 07:22 AM

Glad to hear you are getting this worked out...wish I could help more, but I have the V6 and don't know much about the 4's.

Where in MN are you located?

#10 mn stratus

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 06:56 PM

North of Bemidji. A little ways from Rochester :)